1870’s underpinnings

More progress on the DPP. I finished up the corset and the train supporter and took pictures of half of a paper petticoat I sized up from The Cut of Women’s Clothes.

 

I started this corset so long ago that I can’t even remember what the specific layers are. It’s cotton
sateen and at least one layer of coutil. There might be two because I find the whole thing
extremely heavy. the next corset I make I’m going to focus on the cut and fabrics more
since by now I’m used to using metal boning in things.

You might be able to see this big flaw on the front hip. The cut of the hip gores is off somewhat and
that wrinkle you see appears when I wear the corset as well.

I still have issues with finding proper cord. I need to pick up some stronger stuff tomorrow. The
lace you see here is actually one I made with my lucet this summer. There was a flaw so
when I started to really tighten it, it started to unravel… major bummer…
 
I tried to make a supportive petticoat with stiff tulle to support the train and it was a
disaster! So instead I used Laughing Moon #112 View C, I just left out the bones
at the top to get that Natural Form silhouette. I ended up serging each piece before I sewed it because
I find that the pattern doesn’t make any allowance for finishing seams. Unless I’m
mistaken the front edges aren’t even finished! I also assembled the laced interior
panels in a different order so that the seam allowance are with this space of the bustle
rather than against the legs and towards the front.

I also used this cool vintage buckle I got from my Grandmother. My waistband is two piece of twill tape to give it a little more body.

Here you can see how the top of the bustle looks without boning. I put in the channels but didn’t seal them up in case I change my mind someday.

The front of the paper test petticoat. I may add twill ties to the front of the bones
on the train supporter. I’m not sure if that’s necessary yet.


I had a small diagram to work from on page 201 and I basically attempted to recreate the
pattern shapes to a similar proportion using my waist measurement. I say "similar"
because I shortened it by 13cm and reshaped most of the hip area taking out quite a bit of width.

The train is quite dramatic and this is after I cut off some length!
I expect the fabric will drape quite differently.

I added a pleat in the front rather than a dart. This can be seen in one of the originals documented
on YWU. I think the ease it adds is a helpful feature especially since this is an under layer.

Here you can see how much width I removed from the pattern. I didn’t measure it but I
think I took off about 10cm from the side and another 10cm from the side back seams.
 

My holiday is winding down and I only have a few days left at home. I’m really looking forward to being back at school especially since we’re spending most of our time in the lab this term. I hope we get to do some really challenging treatments!

On the other hand, I am not looking forward to returning to my residence. I am really not a residence kind of person, the lifestyle just isn’t for me. I think I should cook something extravagant when I get there to make myself feel better.

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8 thoughts on “1870’s underpinnings

  1. I love it Brenna! I wish I had your skills, I’ve only recently started sewing (I’m a master of gerbil toys lol) – recently semi-mastered the art of pleating! Sometime when you’re home want to go fabric shopping? 😀

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