One Last Regency Progress

The Sewing:

I’ve made some progress on the checked linen dress. I sewed ALL WEEKEND. I’m getting kind of tired of this project though. I just want it to be finished. I thought I’d post a few in progress pictures and hopefully get some opinions at the end of this entry. 

When I do my handsewing I start with a pattern without seam allowances. My fabric pen in invaluable for this process, it washes out with just water. I trace the pattern pieces each individually on fashion fabric and lining and then cut them out with a very generous seam allowance. Usually about 3cm.

 

A neat trick I tried was to cut out the lining and fashion fabrics with opposite grainlines on a few pieces, mainly the fronts and the centre backs. I did this because I wanted to play with the pattern a bit with put certain pieces on the bias. Hopefully the opposing grainline of the linning will help keep things from stretching.

 

For this pattern I start with the side back seams. I Use my pins to align the corners of the lining and fashion fabrics as I pin them together. I sewed the seam with a backstitch then folded over and sewed down the seam allowances with a whip stitch. An then I realized I had messed up. You can see here that I sewed both seam allowances down in the same direction rather than mirroring them.

Normally this wouldn’t be a problem except that there are loops sewn into the seams for the waist ties and the loops are then angled differently on the outside of the dress. It’s not a big deal but I know it would bug me.

I’ve since redone the seam on the left which really only meant that I had to re-cut the side lining piece and re-sew the seam. It wasn’t too much trouble thank goodness!

I’ve since attached the skirt panels. This is where I’ve run into a bit of trouble. I found the petticoat for my half-robe to be a bit wide for this style and the skirt for my cotton drop-front to be a bit narrow. So I took the two skirt widths and compared them. So the overall circumference for the petticoat was about 250cm and for the cotton dress about 150 – a sizable difference. I cut this one with a 200cm circumference. I had no problem getting the skirt back to fit with the help of some heavy gathering at the centre back, however I had a little more trouble with the front. The 75cm panel for the cotton dress fit perfectly but dealing with an extra 25cm in this case was a bit annoying. What I ended up doing was stacking about 3 pleats at the sides of the ties. When the dress is worn the pleats are positioned over the overlap of front and back skirt panels.


 
In the picture below I’ve got my index and thumb on the side seam and all the gathers to the right of that is the fullness I’m trying to control
 

 

So I guess my question is: does this look weird? Are the pleats the wrong technique to try to control the fullness? Are they positioned to far back? Is there to much overlap at the skirt sides? Bear in mind that the skirt is not hemmed yet and is pooling on the ground. I expect that the weight of the linen would pull on the skirt a tad once it’s hemmed.

The back is looking nice though!

 

 
The Sundry:

Still no visa, still no plane tickets. I do have some stitching exercises that came in the mail today! And they sent my favourite size of needle! I’m definitely in the right program. I want to go sooooo badly!!!!

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