So I puchased this pattern awhile ago since it seemed so interesting and this weekend I decided to give them a try. Upon close investigation the pattern revealed itself to be a very cunning piece of corsetry however I had little hope that a commercial pattern, even this one, would fit my frame. Unfortunately I was proven right. And so the butchery began!
I first put together a single layer mockup of the medium size and I immediately discarded it. I could hardly fit my arms into it and so I moved straight on to the large size. It was slightly more successful however there are several places that require significant alteration. The most obvious of which is the gussets. I chose the D cup gusset and while it seemed wide enough it was nowhere near long enough. So on one side I doubled the length of the slit in the centre front pattern piece and "stretched" the gusset piece out by eye. You can see the difference in this image:
On the left of the above image you can see I have elongated the gussets and on the right they are exactly as the pattern has them. I’ve also taken in the side under the arm on the left. The shoulder strap hit much to far to the front instead of closely in to arm as it was intended. In these images you can see the effect the gusset has on the shape. On the left below are the altered gussets and on the right the unaltered.
I have a presentation on clothing from 1812 coming up this Wednesday. I think I’m prepared however I’m presenting for my colleagues at work and since they’re all material culture specialists of one sort or another I need to make sure that I’m on the ball! Wish me luck!