I finished my eighteenth century hoops! see below for pictures
I started out with the JP ryan pattern but made two major alterations.
The first was to correct the pattern to accommodate my great waist-to-hip ratio. I had the exact same problem that Kendra describes here at the Great Pattern review (scroll down to find the pocket hoops). It was relatively simple to fix, I just slashed the pattern piece perpendicular to the pocket slits and added two inches or so in order to lengthen the top of the hoops. I also took an inch off of either edge of the hoop so that they sat closer in to my hips and didn’t stick out as far.
The second alteration was to add the all around hoop part. To do that I put on my mock up of the altered hoops and noted that a line parallel to the floor would trace from the top of the middle boning casing to the end of the top boning casing, since the bone are on an angle. This made it pretty easy to curve the pattern piece so that it will end in that parallel line. I measured the approximate distance between the two pocket hoops and used that as a guide to cut a continuous piece that wrapped around and made the "hoop".
I’m very pleased with these. The shape is exactly what I wanted and the construction was only moderately frustrating! They are all handsewn with cotton thread from plaid cotton and boned with plastic whalebone from farthingales. You might notice the little patch inside the pocket of the hoops. There’s two on each side and they contain the lead shot that helps to weigh the hoops down.
In other sewing news I’ve made a little bit of progress on my dress form cover. It’s still irritatingly difficult.
Oh and I bought a lucet so… that’s been fun!
I’m totally jealous of those who made it to Under the Redcoat. I must get there someday!
I’m also preparing the pieces that I am sending to Glasgow for the interview. I made up these tags for the two pieces. They’re not to pretentious or anything I hope…